Because I get far too many questions about this flash via mail, I hadto write FAQ about it. In this FAQ is all I know about this flash and Iwill not be able to tell you anything more about it via email. And sinceI don't have manual for this flash I cannot quarantee that this informationis 100% correct, but I have taken several hundret photos with differentcameras and in different situations successfully.
Q: Could you send me a manual of the flash ? Where can I find the manual for this flash ? etc.I don't have manual for this flash and since manufacturing of thisflash have been stopped something like 10 year before internet, it'shighly unlike that you could find the manual in electronic format unlesssomeone have scanned it.Since the flash is just an basic apertureautomatic flash, no manual is not necessarily needed. Just read basicphotography books and you will understand how aperture automatic flashoperates.
Q: How to use the flash in aperture automatic mode ?1. Set the flash M/A selector to A setting2. Select flash power level from the three way selector (Yellow, Green, Red)3. Set the lower slider of the so that the full circle is at the sameASA number as your film speed. In the photo on this page I have usedASA 50 film (Velvia) and the lower slider is in that setting.4. Set the camera to use the aperture that the lower slider and the vertical colored lines between the sliders tell you to use. In the example photo I have used Red power lever and ASA 50, and from thatinformation and properly set slider I can see that I have to useaperture F2. If I would have used Green power level, then the aperturewould have to be set to F2.(5. Test that the flash has enough power for selected settings, bypressing the small white button on the food of the flash. If the greenindicator on the left side of the flash turns to green then the flashhas enough power.)6. Take the photo.Take into concideration these thinks while using any aperture automaticflash:- flash has just an idiot circuit, which cuts off the flash after certainamount of light has reflected back to the sensor (in front of the flashnaturally). This circuitry is as idiot as central weighted metering incameras. For example if you are photographing person with bright whiteshirt, you will propably end up underexposed face. You have to compensateaccording to the situation and scene.- while using aperture automatic mode you can bounce the flash any way youlike and the exposure will be correct (if settings are correct, and youhave compensated the scene in the settings)
Q: How to use the flash in manual mode ?I haven't used this flash (or any flash) not much in manual mode, sometimesfor fill in flash but not much more. Basically you have two ways to do it:by calculating the aperture from distance and guide number or just use thesliders in camera. The first method is explained in all basic photographybooks and I will not start telling about it in here, maybe in technique section. The using of sliders goes like this:1. Measure distance (or read it from camera) and set the top slider to T, N or W position depending, which acessory filter you are using with camera.If none if used, use N mode. In example picture W is selected (W = widediffuser)2. Set the power level of flast to full power, half power or quarter power(full circle, half circle, quarter circle)3. Set the lower slider according to film speed and power level used.4. Select camera aperture from reading down from the top slider. In examplephoto I used Full power with ASA 50 film, and for example if the distancewould be 6.5 meters, I would have selected F2.8. Also from same picture youtake another example: half power, ASA 200 and for example at three metersit would require us to use the aperture F5.6When using for fill in flash I recommend to use 1 to 1.5 stops smaller thanthe recommended. For example if I'm using Velvia (ASA 50) and using full power and the distance from flash to subject is 3 meters I would use apertureF8 or something between F8 and F11 (the "correct" aperture would be 5.6)
Q: Can I use Nissin 360 TW with camera X ?This flash can be used all cameras, which are able to send the sync signalvia hotshoe or via PC-cord (PC is not Personal Computer in this case, it't the normal sync connector, which can be found from most of the cameras).And of course you have to be able to control the exposure manually or atleast the aperture have to be set manually. Nissin has 10 sync voltage and it should not be harmfull to any cameras, I have used Nissin in my G1, which by Canon specs cannot handle more than 6 volts, for thousands of shots.
This is a rebranded Nissin flash, made in China, regardless of its origin, it is a very capable flash and uses standard AA batteries. You gain swivel and tilt but lose the universal NonTTL-Auto mode, making this only a TTL or full Manual and two Slave options. Also adds HSS an LED for video mode. The dial on the back of the unit makes it very quick to use and adjust settings. This is a very capable flash unit and one of the most desired units for the Leica M.
This is another German Metz flash, this works best on cameras such as the S and SL because its bigger size. It is a wonderful unit, powerful and has almost everything you need. TTL, NonTTL-Auto, Manual, Slave modes, Stroboscopic and uses standard AA batteries. You can mount it on any camera and use the Auto option as long as you pre select your aperture and ISO, which is how most NonTTL-Auto units work. It uses a Thyristor trigger.
Now, if they could make a new version that has a NonTTL-Auto mode for any camera, then add a built in commander radio and receiver and it would become my ultimate flash tool. Which is kinda what they did with the SF60. So, it is my radar.
Are there any other options? certainly. You can use Nikon, Canon, Yongnuo, Fuji, Minolta and many more but you will have to keep them in manual mode or NonTTL Auto depending on the flash that you decide to use.
The next set of photos was taken using a Raynox DCR-250 close-up filter with my tripod-mounted Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ150 superzoom digital camera; the scene was lighted using the built-in pop-up flash and Nissin i40 external flash (off-camera, in video mode).
The last set of photos was taken using a Raynox DCR-250 close-up filter with my tripod-mounted Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ150 superzoom digital camera; the scene was lighted using an off-camera Sunpak LED-160 Video Light (with a white translucent plastic filter) and Nissin i40 external flash (off-camera, in video mode).
HyperSync is one of those features that make the Control TL system unique. HyperSync uses a calculated pre-trigger offset to allow faster than X-sync speed shooting but without having to use FP/High Speed sync strobing. Since the flash is only being fired once, as it normally would, instead of being pulsed, as it does in high speed sync/FP mode, the flash can deliver more power to the scene.
On the flash side of things, I find powering up the flash before the receiver works well and immediately puts the flash into ETTL mode. This will be indicated by a pre-flash pop form the flash as it switches into ETTL mode.
Make sure the flashes function properly on cameraCheck that the batteries are good in everythingFlash the PocketWizards to the latest firmware versionDo a factory reset on the PocketWizardsDouble check the flashes come up with ETTL on the rear displayDouble check the physical switches for channel (TT1/TT5), group (TT5) and group mode/enable (AC3) are all set correctly
The pocket size of Nissin i40 weights only 203g of weight . It is suitable for filling shadows on even the sunniest of days, suitable for family shooting, indoor/ outdoor shooting and especially suitable for traveling. Professional functions are included: Wireless TTL mode; Supports up to 1/8,000 seconds shutter speed; Flash output of GN40 at 105mm; Video light function with 9 steps of output level adjustment; Simple operation panel with two selector dials to operate the flash; Flash head tilts up and rotates horizontally to right and left for making bounced lighting more versatile by utilizing more angles. A Soft box is supplied.
Manual zoom (M zoom) NEW!Nissi i40 support 24-105mm auto zoom. And Manual Zoom are available in M, SD, SF, Wireless mode (*4). The manual setting you selected is memorized and remains unchanged when power on.
Slave Modei40 has a wireless remote flash system as a slave unit. You can enjoy creative flash photography with multiple lightings from the various directions. There are 3 slave modes provided.Slave Digital (SD): i40 synchronizes to the pre-flash system. The master flash is to be set at TTL (E-TTL for Canon, i-TTL for Nikon and ADI/ P-TTL for Sony) mode. Slave Film (SF): i40 synchronizes to the traditional single flash system. The master flash is to be set at manual mode. Studio lighting system synchronizes to this mode. This mode is also available for open flash, and for a standard flash in the market.
The Nikon SB-24 Speedlight flash unit is the direct ancestor of the SB-25, SB-26, SB-28 and SB-80DX units. This article is devoted to all of you looking for more information regarding this historic flash unit. For more up-to-date information, we have dedicated information on the Nikon CLS system and a comparison of modern Speedlights. We also have an index of all of our Speedlight articles.
1. Flash mode area (A/M/Strobe/TTL/Automatic exp. correction).2. Manual exposure compensation indicator and bar graph.3. Film speed/Strobe frequency indicator (in Hz).4. Flash covering distance bar graph (in m and ft).5. Zoom head indicator (in mm).6. Aperture display.7. Manual flash intensity compensation indicator.
the only TTL option off camera is the sf58 and c1 combo. But has anyone tried the Leica c1 remote with non-Leica flash units? would the c1 remote/SL2-rig measure TTL flash power and then send those synchronize those settings/measurements to the nissin i60a, or better yet a Godox v1x or a profoto A1X (that has wireless capabilities)? 2b1af7f3a8